Sunday, February 20, 2011

The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
Ocean waves come the deep sea, and they get started by currents

2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
they should know the way the form and what the waves are likely to do and how quickly they can change

Question for the Video:
1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
After watching this video on big waves, the way that these big waves break is that they either crash from the middle of the wave and roll eitgher way leading a huge tube fo the surfers to ride, or the are a massive rolling wave with alot of white water rolling behind the surfer. 

2.Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
Waves are formed wind speed wind direction and size of the fetch. They are measured from crest to crest (peak to peak), they are formed out to sea and get bigger as the hit to reef.

3.What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
A marverick wave is a big wave and it is special beacuse it is formed way out at sea and gradually gets bigger, and as it hits the reef gets alot bigger. However for mavericks to work it needs the correct wind direction and swell direction.

4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
It is stored underneath, in the deep water, and the explodes up as the water gets shallower.

5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
- Respect the waves
- Ger in there, catch one, before the wrath of the gods comes down on you

Year 10: 7.3 Geographical Processes Shaping the Coastal Environment

Wave Refraction

Tombolo
Beach

Coastal Lagoon
Barrier Dune System
Sand Spit 
 Offshore Sand Bar
Sand Dunes
Sea Cave
Natural Bridge
Sea Stacks
Longshore Drift



Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Year 10: 7.1 Geographical Issues in the Coastal Environment

Will Hennessy

1. People are moving away from the cities and into the coastal area.

2. So the coast line doesnt move up into the developped areas.

3. sea change was the trend of people moving from the city to small coastal towns.

4. government responce to sea change was to put a cap on the amount of people able to move to the coast.

5.
Population growth - people moving from cites to the small coastal change

Pollution - the human actions that cause this issue are that people are not carefully disposing items and that poeple need to take more care prtecting our oceans from pollutions.

Tourism and recreational pressures - the coast is a high tourist attraction and during peak season these populated beaches can double in population and due to this the beaches can be distoyed. e.g a beach that has four wheel driving on the dunes as an attration can be highly susceptible to erosion if not looked after.

Coastal rivers and lagooons - these places need to be constantly cleaned and looked after as the boats pollution can be harm full and the silt that can be flushed through then can block up the entrance so if not mangage correcttly looked after.

6. the role geographers play in developing is that they can find problems and then find a solutions to this problem.

7. Inappropiate development
dear editor,
i'm finally please with the governments efforts to make our coastline sustainable for a better coastal future, they have finaly started making changes and restirctions on the develpoment aloung the coastline and introducing managment stategies increases the jobs in the smaller towns.