Sunday, February 20, 2011

The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
Ocean waves come the deep sea, and they get started by currents

2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
they should know the way the form and what the waves are likely to do and how quickly they can change

Question for the Video:
1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
After watching this video on big waves, the way that these big waves break is that they either crash from the middle of the wave and roll eitgher way leading a huge tube fo the surfers to ride, or the are a massive rolling wave with alot of white water rolling behind the surfer. 

2.Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
Waves are formed wind speed wind direction and size of the fetch. They are measured from crest to crest (peak to peak), they are formed out to sea and get bigger as the hit to reef.

3.What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
A marverick wave is a big wave and it is special beacuse it is formed way out at sea and gradually gets bigger, and as it hits the reef gets alot bigger. However for mavericks to work it needs the correct wind direction and swell direction.

4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
It is stored underneath, in the deep water, and the explodes up as the water gets shallower.

5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
- Respect the waves
- Ger in there, catch one, before the wrath of the gods comes down on you

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